Cambridge River Tour (Edited Version 2009)

As a Punt Chauffeur at Granta your duties will be setting up punts, dealing with queries and taking out tours. Most important however it will also include providing first class customer service, maintaining a safe working environment on station and on the river; Operating an efficient, high quality service; Offering effective, courteous ticket sales and giving a tour that is accurate, informative and entertaining.

Cambridge City

• 100’000 inhabitants
• Originally a Roman settlement with a small garrison at Castle Hill
• Built upon by Anglo-Saxons, Vikings and then Normans – Roman settlement may have been larger though.
• Originally the was two rivers, larger and tidal.
• Grew because it was at the head of a navigable river that connected with the sea – King’s Lyn. More later..

University

In 2009 the University of Cambridge celebrates its 800th anniversary.

• Stems from 1209 when Oxford scholars left due to conflict with the townspeople.
• Back then to be a student you had to be a gentleman – rich and wellborn – and you were granted privileges, including being tried in University courts as opposed to Crown courts. This meant you could get away with murder.
• However in 1209 two Oxford scholars were convicted of the murder of a woman and hanged with the King’s consent. In protest, the university suspended itself and scholars left to a number of locations.
• Drawn to Cambridge due the existence of a school already in place there, as well as the large number of monasteries.
• It was first recognised as a University by papal decree, Gregory IX granting legal protection to the chancellor and scholars. It was later recognised as a ‘stadium generale’ by Pope Nicholas IV in 1290 – a medieval university.
• First college was Peterhouse in 1284, idea of colleges copied from Ox and Paris.
• Now 31 colleges, 24 predominantly undergrad and 7 post grad.
• Newnham and Newhall are female only, while Lucy Cavendish is female and post grad only.
• First woman admitted to Griton end of 19th century, although couldn’t gain degrees until the 1940s. First woman to be awarded a degree was the Queen Mother in 1948. First mixed sex admittance was Kings, Clare and Churchill. Last male college to take women was Magdalene; on the first day of female acceptance students wore black armbands, carried round a coffin, rung bells and all flags were flown at half-mast.
• All Cam degrees are BA except engineering; Tripos is the name of the exams as students sit on a three-legged stool to take them. 7 years after Matriculation the BA becomes an MA, reflecting the opinion that a degree from Cam is worth at least a MA from elsewhere.

PUNTING

• Traditional vessel for navigating Cambridge waterways, hunting eels and duck. Word Punt comes from Old English to ‘push’. Pleasure punts from 1902.
• First attempt to drain made in 17th century by the Dutch engineer Vermoyden. ‘Fen Tigers’ – the puntmen – sabotage his dykes and ditches as it threatens their livelihood. Eventually drained a century later thanks to steam power.

THE COLLEGES

Darwin

• Founded 1964.
• Only post grad college on the Cam
• Money put up by John’s, Trinity and Gonville and Caius.
• Named Darwin as his eldest son lived in Newnham Grange, the older building.
• Originally owned by a coal merchant who brought coal in on the river – steam power put him out of business.

Laundress Green Originally this was a working area, with mills, small tradesmen and washerwomen living and working in the area. Washerwoman used to dry cloths washed in the Cam – unlikely to be very successful as river was an open sewer and animals grazed on the grass. Washerwoman used to live in the area what is now the Anchor Pub. The area was an important commercial area – until the 18th century dominated by 2 Mills, (Bishops and Kings), local trades and inns around the river. The Domesday survey in 1086 records that there were three grain mills situated next to the river, the King’s, Bishop’s and Newnham opposite our moorings. The arrival of the railway in Cambridge in 1845 had significant implications for the use of the river for commercial purposes. Milling activity finally moved from the site to Foster’s Mill at the station in the 1920s.

Gwen Raverat, the author and member of the Darwin family who lived at Newnham Grange and chronicled life in the area around Silver Street particularly in her book Period Piece. Her memories of the mills which she sets out in Period Piece published in 1952 are particularly
evocative of how the character had changed since her childhood in the 1880s:

'In those days both the mills were in use. I still now feel that there is an unnatural gap in the landscape where Foster Brothers Mill used to stand before it was pulled down;
and I find it hard to believe that the boys, who sit fishing on the parapet, have no idea that there once was a great mill behind them. We used to spend many hours
watching the fat corn-sacks being hauled up by a pulley into the overhanging gable, sometimes from a barge, but more often from the great yellow four-horse wagons,
which stood beneath the trapdoor. The sacks butted the trapdoors open with their own noses, and the doors fell to,
with a loud clap, behind them'

The Grad pad. Granta Place was once the home of the Granta Brewery, which later moved to Panton Street.

Little St.Marys The street beind the grad pad By the late 19th century, the street housed College servants and also had the reputation as something of a ‘red light district’ due to the presence of the Half Moon Inn from 1875 until 1971.

Silver Street Bridge used to be a toll bridge as the river split in two encircling Queens’ college –was named after the silversmiths who occupied buildings along it and Laundress Lane which was used by the washerwomen who washed clothes in the river and presumably dried them on the green. Silver Street was previously known as ‘Small Bridges’ and was an important route particularly for the transporting of corn to the mills
and fl our from the mills.
Thus by the end of the 18th century the Mill Lane area, together with the Quayside area by Magdalene Bridge, remained the main
commercial areas of the town; much of the area between having been colonized by the Colleges and the ‘Backs’ re-landscaped. In essence, the
area was one of the ‘town’ areas rather than being under the infl uence of ‘the gown’.

Queens’

• Founded 1448, named after two queens Margaret of Anjou, wife of Henry VI and Elizabeth Woodville, wife of Edward IV.
• Oxford Queen’s – singular – is named after Phillipa, wife of Edward III.
o Mathematical Bridge was in 1749 by James Essex, a local carpenter, on designs by James Etheridge. This is the third incarnation since then, based on the original design. Derives from Etheridge’s travels in the Orient. Built of teak with the beams at tangents to the arc of a circle – the ark here formed by the underside of the bridge. Stress is therefore transferred from one to the other. Legend says Sir Isaac Newton built it without bolts, but some Queens’ students took it apart and couldn’t put it together again. Unfortunately, Newton died in 1727 long before it was built, and it always had bolts.
• Right: Cloister Court, oldest on tour dating 1480s. Two small bricked up windows high up come from window tax – early version of income tax as only the wealthy could afford windows. Therefore while windows on the front of buildings were kept, those on the back were bricked to save money.
• Left: Cripps Building, accommodation and dining. Sir Humphrey Cripps was a metal fittings manufacturer who died 2000.
• Right: Erasmus Building. Built in 1959 it was the first modern building on the backs. Designed by Sir Basil Spence, architect of Coventry Cathedral. Intended to resemble trees on the other side of the river.
o Alumni: Erasmus, humanist scholar who cam to Cam from Rotterdam between 1510-1514

Kings

• Founded 1441 by Henry VI as a college for his new school, Eton. Remained Eton only until 1873.
• College statutes included one that forbid students bringing dogs, ferrets, hawks, falcons, monkeys, bears, stags or foxs to College, and another that forbid wrestling in the Chapel.
• Also he included the unique privilege of not having to take exams to gain a degree, making sure students didn’t overwork.
• Building on the right is residential, 1890 and then extended 1955. Contrast with Erasmus.
o King’s Bridge built 1819, architect William Wilkins.
• Left: Common land and the remains of King’s Bridge – given to the people so they could let animals graze ensuring constant supply of milk. Right to let animals graze exists to this day.
• Right: King’s Lawn, only fellows allowed.
• Right: Gibb’s Building next to Chapel, names after architect James Gibbs who also did the Senate House. Houses bachelor fellows and teaching rooms.
o Alumni: Rupert Brooke who wrote about Granchester in his poem.

Chapel

• Most famous view of Cambridge. First stone laid in 1446 by Henry VI, then took 80 years to build. Interrupted by conflict, including War of the Roses, which eventually won by Henry VII, led to the chapel being emblazoned with examples of Tudor stonework. A great symbol of his victory effectively.
• Intricate fan vaulted ceiling, largest in the world. It is 24 meters high, 88 meters long and 12 meters wide. Originally going to be 4 times that size but budgetary constraints after Henry VI's death meant this wasn’t possible.
• Flemish Stained Glass fitted 1515-31, depicting Old Testament stories with New Testament below. Removed in WWII for storage.
• Half way along behind the nave is a wooden screen with an intertwined H & A carved into it, standing for Henry and Anne. At the back is Ruben’s Adoration of the Magi which was painted in 1624 and donated in 1968 after being bought in 1659 for a record £250’000.
• Chapel built with two limestones, Yorkshire at the East (far) end and darker Northamptonshire at the West.
• Cromwell, who disliked it, used it as a stable.
• Legend about a student who, after doing badly in finals felt college had let him down and so climbed up onto a spire with a dustbin and placed it there. College had to hire scaffolding to remove it, and to get that high it would take three days. On the second night, the bin was removed and placed on the other spire.

Clare

• Second oldest college founded 1326 as University Hall by Richard de Badew, then redounded in 1338 by Elizabeth de Burgh, Countess of Clare and granddaughter of Edward I. Arrogant to do so, a very wealthy woman who had three rich husbands, all of whom died in mysterious circumstances.
• No original building left due to fire of 1521, which caused huge damage, meaning at the end of the century it had to be rebuilt. Construction interrupted by wars, notably the Civil War, when construction material was plundered by Cromwell to fortify Cambridge Castle. He did however repay, eventually, as a Sidney Sussex graduate.
o Clare Bridge is the oldest surviving on the river thanks to Cromwell who destroyed most. Built 1640 by Thomas Grumbold. Cost was £65. It is missing a slice from one sphere – legends tell of a student taking it to win a bet, Grumbold being paid 15p under due to left arch off centre so he took 15p of stone, or that there was a tax on completed bridges, so they didn’t complete it.
• Left: Clare Fellows Garden – dedicated to those that lost their lives in the two great wars.

Trinity Hall

• Founded in 1350 by William Bateman, Bishop of Norwich. Trinity itself is around 200 years younger. Looked at Gonville and Caius Hall, which gave him the idea to found a college focused on law, in which it still maintains a high standing. Also needed to replace the priests lost in the Black Death, the diocese of Norwich lost 700 alone. Oldest chapel of all, begun in 1352.
• In the parlour is a half-moon table, which has a track on it with two motorised carts. These deliver port to the fellows in the traditional manner.
o Alumni: Robert Runice, Archbishop of Canterbury from 1980-1991.

Garret Hostel Bridge is the only city owned bridge on the back, built in 1960 for £43,000, 630 times more than Clare Bridge cost.

University Library, left, is one of only three copyright libraries in the UK. It receives 25’000 new books a month, and has to organise them by height in order to fit them all in. Tower added by Pilgrim Trust, Anglo-American organisation, who thought it wasn’t impressive enough. It is the highest point between here and Moscow. Legend that the tower is stuffed with Victorian pornography, which only the world’s foremost experts are allowed access to.

Trinity

• Founded 1546 by Henry VIII who brought together King’s Hall and Michaelhouse. Largest and richest college, with around 660 undergrads and 430 post grads and fixed endowment of £700 million. Has 31 Nobel Prize winners, its previous master being one, and this would put it 5th in the Country Rankings alone, and over a third of the University’s winners.
o University as a whole has 81 winners, putting it equal first with the University of Columbia. However, all Cambridge winners are graduates, as opposed to a researcher or a member of the faculty.
• Right: New Court, built 1825. Prince of Wales was a resident in 1967, and graduated with a 2-2 in History and Archaeology. Legend says his bodyguards, who went everywhere with him, thought they might as well sit finals too, and came out with 2-1s.
• Through the Great Gate is the setting for Chariots of Fire, although it was actually filmed at St. Andrews.
• Fountain belongs to Caius College.
o Trinity Bridge built in 1764 by James Essex (same as Mathematical)
o Alumni: Newton, Francis Bacon, Bertrand Russell, Byron, A.A.Milne, Edward VII and George VI (Charles grandfather). Hawking is Lucasian Professor of Mathematics.

Wren Library, designed by Wren, built in 1676-9 and fronts Neville’s Court. Probably his best work out of London, it includes no books after 1820. Famous works inside include Shakespeare’s first folio, Isaac Newton’s Pocket Book, a page from the Gothenburg Bible (first printed book), original version of ‘Winnie the Pooh’ and only example of John Milton’s handwriting.

St John’s

• Second in wealth and size behind Trinity, which has made them long term rivals. Founded in 1511 by Lady Margaret of Beaufort, mother of Henry VII. Also founded Christ’s. Founded on Hospital site run by monks, hence St. John.
• Left: New Court was first building on Western Bank, built 1825-31, sometimes called ‘Wedding-Cake’. Example of neo-gothic architecture. Both Trinity and John’s building at same time, race to finish clock towers as council decrees only one is allowed. John’s is well ahead, but Trinity cheats by using wood and finishes in 3 days, which is why the face is blank.
• May week 2002 two students climbed to the top of the tower and tied a Trinity scarf round it. Weren’t caught on the roof, which would have been a fine of £100-£150, but caught taking pictures. Taken before the Dean who, rather than fine or tell them off, told them he was glad to see they were keeping the Trinity spirit up, and looked forward to hearing of their future works.
• Other rivalry from May Bumps at turn of 20th C, when John’s boat hit Trinity and killed the Cox. John’s banned from rowing, why their club is Lady Margaret Boat Club.
o Kitchen Bridge built 1709-12 by Robert Grumbold. Partly designed by Wren, so known as Wren Bridge.
o Bridge of Sighs built 1831, designed by Henry Hutchinson based on the Venice Bridge. Queen Victoria remarked it was ‘the most pretty and picturesque feature’ of the Uni, despite being 5’ tall and short sighted. In Venice it runs from the Court Room to the Executioners Chamber, and the name derives from the sighs of the condemned. In John’s, students use it to collect their exam results. Twice had cars hung beneath it (once in 1963 and again in 1968), students using four punts to carry the cars down river and then using rope to suspend them. Decorated one side only, as visitors would come from downstream. Plain the other, where the tradesmen’s door is.
• Right: St John’s College Library, built 1623-28. High up the initials I.C.L.S., Johannis Lincolniensis Custos Sigilli. This was the name and office of John Williams, Bishop of Lincoln and keeper of the Great Seal who gave money to build the Library. Also steps to Master's Garden.
• Left: Cripp’s Building, built 1963-67. Cost £800,000, money from the Cripp’s Foundation. Legend says the Cripps wanted a degree, and offered John’s lots of money but they refused, so he did the same to Queen’s and they accepted – hence Cripp’s Court.

Magdalene Bridge is almost on the site of the original Roman ford (40AD) and the original Cam-Bridge (Saxon). Current bridge built 1823. The bridge across the River Cam or Granta, from which the town took its name 'Cam Bridge', had existed since at least 731 AD. The town was an important trading centre before the Domesday survey was compiled in 1086, by which time a castle stood on the rising ground to the north of the bridge, and there were already substantial commercial and residential properties as well as several churches in the main settlement which lay south of the bridge.

Within the town, or very close to it, there were a number of other religious institutions. There had been canons in the Church of St Giles below the castle before 1112, when they moved to a new site across the River Cam at Barnwell, and the Convent of St Radegund had existed since 1135 on the site which eventually became Jesus College. There were also two hospitals, one reserved for lepers at Stourbridge, and a second, founded for paupers and dedicated to St John, which after 1200 occupied the site where St John's College now stands. There was thus much to bring clerks (clergymen) to the town, but traders were also attracted to it. After about 1100 they could reach Cambridge easily by the river systems which drained the whole of the East Midlands, and through Lynn and Ely they had access to the sea. Much wealth accumulated in the town, and the eleven surviving medieval parish churches.

By 1200, Cambridge was a thriving commercial community which was also a county town and had at least one school of some distinction. Then, in 1209, scholars taking refuge from hostile townsmen in Oxford migrated to Cambridge and settled there. At first they lived in lodgings in the town, but in time houses were hired as hostels with a Master in charge of the students. By 1226 the scholars were numerous enough to have set up an organisation, represented by an official called a Chancellor, and seem to have arranged regular courses of study, taught by their own members. From the start there was friction between the town and the students. Students, usually aged about fourteen or fifteen, often caused disturbances; citizens of the town, on the other hand, were known to overcharge for rooms and food. King Henry III took the scholars under his protection as early as 1231 and arranged for them to be sheltered from exploitation by their landlords. At the same time he tried to ensure that they had a monopoly of teaching, by an order that only those enrolled under the tuition of a recognised master were to be allowed to remain in the town. In its earliest days, the University had no premises of its own: it relied on parish churches, especially Great St Mary's and St Benedict's.

Magdalene

• Originally Buckingham College founded 1472, refounded by Lord Audley in 1542. (Audley sounds like the Cambridge pronunciation of Magdalene – a poor pun). Henry VIII dissolved and re-opened it dedicated to Mary Magdalene.
• Famous thanks to Pepys who was a student; he died in 1703 leaving 3000 books and the world’s first bookcases.

Quayside on the right is where watermen used to deliver goods, stopped start of 20th century. Gargoyle beneath Henry’s Bar is a depiction of Benedict Spinola, a crooked moneylender who rented Covent Garden for Magdalene and then sold it – the college never recovered the land.

Copyright Granta Punting Company 2009